The Ring of Kerry, a Stroll Through Killarney and an Irish Ceilidh Evening

At this point, I must say something about hotel breakfasts in Europe. They are far better than those in American hotels. “Full breakfast” doesn’t seem to mean the same thing in the U.S. Most mornings in Ireland I have had the usual eggs and sausage, but also grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, and a wide variety of fruit. And nowhere have I seen those awful waffle makers that cause crowd control issues at the buffet.

This morning our bus took us around the Ring of Kerry, a 112 mile route around the Iveragh Peninsula. We started in Killarney and traveled anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise to us) as most of the tour buses do because the road is narrow and two huge vehicles passing could be difficult. Our first stop was Macken of Ireland, a lovely shop with Irish jewelry, woolens, and other items of interest to tourists. As we entered, we were offered Irish coffee (coffee with whiskey, brown sugar, and cream. We eagerly accepted because it was 5 o’clock somewhere. It was delicious.

Our next stop on the Ring of Kerry was in Waterville where we went on a quest to find a statue of Charlie Chaplin who vacationed there for several years in an attempt to escape the paparazzi.

Statue of Charlie Chaplin

Unfortunately, the fog was thick and we were unable to get pictures of the great water views one sees on sunny days.

Fog as far as the eye can see…

We stopped for lunch at the Scarriff Inn where we had fish chowder that was okay. From there we took a long drive along the Ring of Kerry while James, our guide, pointed out interesting sights we might see if it wasn’t foggy and told stories about the history of this part of Ireland. He also played Irish music and songs with some connection to the area. Finally we stopped at Ladies View to take some photos. The area got its name when Queen Victoria visited and her ladies-in-waiting saw the view and declared it beautiful.

Ladies View

We returned to Killarney and had some free time to explore the town. This is definitely a town that caters to tourists. We stopped in a few shops and then found Murphy’s and had some delicious chocolate whiskey ice cream. (Thanks to my friend Jill for recommending it.)

This evening we were treated to an Irish Ceilidh, a social gathering with traditional music and dancing at Kate Kearney’s Cottage. We dined with new friends from Mississippi and Chicago and had some great conversations. The band and dancers were excellent and everyone declared it “craic.”

Band and Dancers at our Ceilidh

Tomorrow we head for Limerick. I may be inspired to write one.

Blarney Castle & Gardens and Killarney National Park

Our second bus tour day began with a long ride from Kilkenny to Blarney Castle. This morning’s journey allowed me to see some lovely Irish countryside full of cows, sheep, and hedges and gave me time to finish the New York Times crossword puzzle. When we arrived in Blarney our guide politely suggested that not everyone needs to kiss the Blarney Stone. It’s at the top of the Blarney Castle tower and getting there involves climbing through narrow passages and up many stone steps of uneven height and depth. We took one look at the stairs and decided the gift of gab was something we didn’t really need in our old age. Instead, we stood on the ground and looked up at the tower where we could see the more adventurous tourists bending over backwards to become more eloquent.

Look up!

We spent most of our time exploring the gardens. Comprising about 60 acres, Blarney Gardens offers numerous walkways and paths through woodlands and garden plots including a poison garden and a fern garden and along several little streams and a lake. Paul had his trekking poles so we managed to visit a large portion of the gardens before we felt the need for a rest and some coffee.

The Fern Garden

Back on the bus, we headed for Killarney where we opted to take an optional jaunting car (horse cart) ride through Killarney National Park. Dennis and Henry, our driver and horse, took us along streets and narrow paths in the park, artfully dodging joggers and walkers, as Dennis pointed out flora and fauna including red deer and white tailed deer. It was a pleasant way to see some of the park.

Henry Pulling our Jaunting Car

After checking in at our hotel and resting a bit, we enjoyed dinner with two new friends from Florida with whom we discussed music, sports, children, and just a bit of American politics.

Tomorrow we visit the Ring of Kerry. We’re hoping for good weather.