Always End Your Day With Some Comic Opera

On December 6, 2023December 6, 2023 By Barbara GreenstoneIn BerlinLeave a comment

I’m beginning to think the sun never shines on Berlin. We haven’t seen it yet. There was more snow overnight, and with temperatures hovering around freezing, the sidewalks were an icy mess. Nevertheless, we set off for more adventures, knowing it would be slow going.

The Garden of Exile in the Jewish Museum Berlin

We began the day with a visit to the Jewish Museum Berlin and we spent much longer there than we expected to. The bottom floor of the museum has an exhibit designed to symbolize three aspects of Jewish life in Germany: exile, Holocaust, and continuity. The Garden of Exile is an outdoor exhibit of columns on uneven, slanting ground that is designed to replicate the disorientation Jews experienced as they were rounded up and driven from their homes. The core exhibit is a presentation of the history and culture of Jews in Germany, past and present. Visiting this exhibit is a sobering experience, especially as we think about the current situation in Israel and Gaza. We noticed a very visible (and probably some not so visible) police and security presence around the buildings, and I’m sad that it has to be this way. We can only hope that one day, people of all religions, races, and cultures can live side by side in peace.

After the Jewish Museum we headed for the obligatory photo op at Checkpoint Charlie before we looked for a train to take us to our next adventure, the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg Museum to see their Surreal Worlds exhibit of surrealist drawings and paintings by Max Ernst, Paul Klee, Hans Bellmer and many others.

Across the street from the museum was another Christmas Market, and we had a couple hours to kill, so we decided to check it out. The market was in front of the massive Charlottenburg Palace which we knew we would not have time to visit on this trip, but we were glad we got to admire it from the outside. We strolled around the market for a while and then decided to have an early dinner in a restaurant in a heated tent. And yes, we had some Glühwein. We decided that German Christmas Markets are like the Fryeburg Fair, but colder, and with more alcohol, and no animals.

Final Bows at Orpheus and the Underworld

Our evening event was a performance of Jacques Offenbach’s Orpheus in the Underworld at the Komische Oper Berlin. We were notified just before we arrived that tonight’s performance would be in concert format rather than the fully staged opera because of a strike somewhere. It was difficult for us to figure out exactly who was striking (Google Translate can’t solve all our language problems) but we decided to see the show anyway. This performance was hilarious, even without all the sets and costumes, and they still danced the cancan at the end. The audience was sparse, probably because refunds were offered, but we appreciated this company’s “the show must go on” attitude.

It was another long day and my Fitbit says we walked 18,365 steps today so we’re ready to call it a day. Tomorrow is our last full day in Berlin and I’m sure we’ll pack a lot into it.

A Zoo, a Church, and a Lot of Wagner

On December 4, 2023December 4, 2023 By Barbara GreenstoneIn Berlin1 Comment

It snowed a little overnight. It was 26° and cloudy, and a bit icy underfoot, so our first thought was, “Let’s go to the zoo!” And it turned out to be a pretty good idea. The Berlin weather isn’t bad if you dress for it, and we were prepared. The zoo was quiet on a Sunday morning and strolling the grounds was pleasant. The highlight, of course, was the pandas, but we found plenty of other animals, indoors and out, to entertain us.

After the zoo, we headed for the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, first passing by another of the many Berlin Christmas markets. We were tempted to stop for some glühwein but it was crowded and we were on a mission. The Kaiser Wilhelm church was built between 1959 and 1963, not to replace but to stand alongside the original church that was bombed during WW II. The inside of the modern church is spectacular with walls that incorporate 21,292 stained glass windows. (I’ll post more pictures on the Berlin page under the Photos tab of this blog later.)

Kaiser Wilhelm Church — Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

After admiring the church, we made our way to Deutsche Oper Berlin to see the longest opera ever. Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg is Wagner’s only comedic work (in the sense that no one died) and lasts almost 6 hours, including two intermissions. In the past I’ve shied away from Wagner operas because they were overwhelming. I tried listening to one on the Saturday radio broadcast, but it was mostly just background music. It wasn’t until I saw one in a Met Live in HD performance that I really understood what Wagner was all about. I think that, before I retired, I didn’t have the time or intellectual energy to fully appreciate Wagner. This was only the second live performance of a Wagner opera I’ve seen, and it was spectacular. The singing was excellent, but it’s really the orchestra that sucks you in. The plot was convoluted and sometimes silly, but I could say that about many operas. Die Meistersinger was (and still is) controversial, and some would say antisemitic, but musically exquisite. It was maybe my best opera experience ever.

Bows at *Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg*

Tomorrow we’re off to Potsdam to see what we can see. Stay tuned.

Getting There is Half the Fun… Sometimes

On December 3, 2023December 3, 2023 By Barbara GreenstoneIn Berlin1 Comment

I hate night flights because I’ve never been able to sleep on a plane. We’ve taken several red-eye flights to and from Los Angeles, and one to London, but they’ve all been direct flights. This time our flight was in two segments and that’s even worse. On the upside, I think sleep deprivation helps you adjust to time zone changes more quickly.

Our journey started with a bus ride from Portland to Logan. Traffic wasn’t too bad, so we got there in plenty of time for an airport dinner before our flight. Icelandair is a quirky little airline. As we boarded the plane, we were greeted with Icelandic music playing throughout the cabin. If you’re participating in the Little Drummer Boy challenge, does it count if you hear it on a plane in Icelandic? The flight to Reykjavík was okay, but the airport there was chaotic. Apparently they have more planes than gates, so we deplaned onto a bus that took us to the gate. We then had to find Passport Check before we could find the gate for our flight to Berlin. At that gate, we were herded onto another bus. These buses are the kind that have more standing than seating space, and we were packed in like sardines. Twenty minutes later, we were still on that bus, waiting on the tarmac to board the plane. Boarding was chaotic because there was no system, all rows boarded at the same time so there was a lot of waiting while passengers stowed their luggage and coats. I don’t know if it’s always like this, but our experience won’t deter us from coming back to Iceland one day. The flight to Berlin was better because no one was seated in the third seat in our row, so we could spread out. I sat by the window and watched a lovely sunrise above the clouds as we approached Germany.

When we arrived at the airport in Berlin, we exchanged a few dollars for Euros and bought Berlin Welcome Cards and Museum Pass. Then we had to figure out trains that would get us close to our hotel. I like the fact that, in Berlin (and other European cities) you buy a pass and just jump on and off trains and buses without the bother of turnstiles or ticket takers. You just show your pass if asked (and we’ve never been asked).

After checking in at our hotel, we set off to see the Brandenburg Gate and then stopped for an early dinner at EINSTEIN Unter den Linden (We had Wiener Schnitzel mit Preiselbeeren, Petersilienerdäpfeln und Gurkensalat!) Then it was off to Staatsoper to see Marc-Antoine Charpentier’s opera Médée (Medea). We had seen the Met production (live in HD at the movie theater) and this was nothing like that. The orchestra was a small baroque orchestra conducted by Sir Simon Rattle, and this production didn’t have the dramatic, gothic feel of the recent Met one. Nonetheless, it was interesting (if a bit long) and the singing was beautiful.

As we left the opera, we passed a huge Christmas Market, but decided to save it for another day. After more than 36 hours without sleep, we were happy to return to our hotel for some much needed rest.

Tomorrow – Wagner!

London to Glasgow By Rail for a Night at the Opera

On October 22, 2019October 22, 2019 By Barbara GreenstoneIn Scotland

Theatre Royal Glasgow

One of the best reasons to travel is to actually see all those places you’ve only read about. I read a lot of novels set in the UK and Ireland and I watch a lot of shows from the BBC, so I’m happy that I get to see a little bit of Scotland on this trip.

We landed in London yesterday but only spent one night there before hopping on a train to Glasgow this morning. We had been warned that trains to Scotland are often late so we weren’t surprised that the Virgin Train left London 20 minutes behind schedule. Then there was a freight train up the line somewhere that was mysteriously disabled causing a backup that delayed us another forty minutes or so. Other than that, the train was actually quite pleasant. The seats were comfortable and the view out the window was interesting. I think I saw more sheep today than in all my previous 69 years of life.

When we finally arrived, we quickly checked into our hotel and then set off on a short walk to see what we could see. Our plan was to go to Glasgow Cathedral and the Necropolis where we were told we could get the best views of the city. Along the way, we were distracted by some of the amazing street murals on the buildings we passed, so by the time we reached the cathedral, we were too tired and it was too late for us to climb the hill to the Necropolis. Maybe tomorrow.

After dinner we made our way to Theatre Royal, home of Scottish Opera, for a performance of Tosca. It’s a lovely hall and a lovely opera. We have seen Tosca many times and sometimes I think we’ve been spoiled by the Met Live in HD performances where the sets and costumes are spectacular and every aria is breathtaking. Tonight we saw a very respectable show without the glitz and glamor and top-name stars, but an enjoyable evening all the same. Each time we see Tosca we hope for a happier ending, but tonight was like all the others. She jumped.

Tomorrow we spend our second day in Glasgow and I’m hoping to take more pictures. The internet in our hotel is unreliable, but I’ll try to post some in the photos section.

So This is Milan

On November 12, 2017March 26, 2018 By Barbara GreenstoneIn MilanLeave a comment

It’s said that the Fascist Mussolini made the post-war trains run on time in Italy (not true) but they don’t run on time now. Our train to Milan was quite late, but the trip itself was pleasant. We were seated with two women (mother and daughter) who spoke English fluently so we felt quite at home. The mother, Dawn, is about our age and originally from Long Island, New York but moved to Florence to get her Masters Degree and stayed. Her daughter was born in Italy and lives in Rome. We talked about American politics, music, art, education and our children. Dawn is recently widowed and has turned her home outside Florence into an Airbnb and if she sends us a link to her site, I’ll share it.

0807D92D-1CD9-4671-A79A-29E6F55C7BCF — The Last Supper

Milan is not like Florence where you can walk to almost everything, so we were often lost. We did manage to find the Metro and get to the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie where we got a tour including Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper. This is an image we all grew up with, and seeing the original was especially satisfying.

58A54060-9CB4-4998-AF5F-6D43C9243AA7 — Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie

You can’t just walk in and look at it, you have to have reservations or be with a group. The room is entered and exited through rooms that serve as air locks, and each group is allowed only 15 minutes of viewing time. Our tour guide explained that Leonardo did not like to use the fresco technique of painting on wet plaster because it dries quickly and once dried cannot be changed. He liked to work slowly so he used tempera paint over the plaster, and over the years the humidity and other factors have done a lot of damage. It’s still impressive and much bigger than I expected.

Our tour continued on to the Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore where the walls and ceilings are covered with Renaissance frescos. It’s often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of Milan. The church is divided by a wall forming a separate nuns’ hall where there’s a huge organ built in 1554. From the church we went to the Sforza Castle, a large citadel that was impressive and extremely crowded. There are several museums there that we could have visited, but it was getting late and we had to get some dinner and make our way to the Piazza del Duomo.

3CD25C23-BB4B-4A18-8961-43F8132BE622 — La Scala

The Piazza del Duomo in the heart of the city is a happening place. There were tour groups, street performers, and a group of people marching for animal rights (we first saw them at the Sforza Castle). Our destination was the renown opera house La Scala because we had tickets for the last performance of their 2016-17 season, Verdi’s Nabucco. We got our tickets online in August, and the only ones left had a limited view of the stage and weren’t together, but we jumped at the chance to see an opera in the most famous hall in the world. Our seats were in separate boxes, and it was hard to see, but it was still La Scala!

We recently saw the Met Live in HD production so it was hard not to compare. I have to admit that I prefer the Met production. The opera is set in Babylon in the time of Nebuchadnezzar, but sometimes directors choose to change up things a bit and set the opera in more modern times, so this one looked like a black and white movie from the 30s. I know I should be more open minded about such things, but I really prefer the original settings (same with Shakespeare plays). Sometimes it almost works, but not this time. I was also disappointed in the chorus, probably because I was comparing it to the Met. There’s a chorus in the third act, Va, pensiero, or the The Chorus of the Hebrew Slaves that was so beautiful and moving in the Met production that the audience demanded an immediate encore. That was not the case with this production. The chorus was not together and did not project that same sense of melancholy I was expecting. Still, it was La Scala! I’m happy we had the experience.

The Colosseum, the Forum, and Opera Roma

On November 5, 2017November 5, 2017 By Barbara GreenstoneIn Rome1 Comment

We purchased our Roma cards today which make getting around Rome and getting into museums much easier. We hopped on the Metro and went to the Colosseum with a few thousand other tourists. With Rick Steves as our guide (Paul has the app on his phone) we walked around and marveled at the amazing engineering feat the Romans (with slave labor) managed to create for viewing all kinds of barbaric entertainment (think football). I kept thinking about the short story The Lady or the Tiger that I used to read with eighth-graders because they loved both the romantic and barbaric aspects although the ambiguity drove them crazy. The story doesn’t take place in Rome but in some semi-barbaric kingdom with an arena. Maybe my favorite part of the tour was when Mr. Steves explained that Roma and Amor together form a palindrome.

We then went to the Forum and I was disappointed that nothing funny happened on the way. I wish we had more time there because there’s much to see, but we managed to get through about half of the Rick Steves tour before we decided we’d had enough. You can see some of our pictures on the Rome page.

In the evening we went to Opera Roma to see La Traviata. The hall is beautiful and we were seated in a box with three lovely Italian ladies who delighted in practicing their English with us during the intermissions. This is our third time seeing La Traviata this year. We saw the Met Live in HD production at the movie theater and the Opera Maine production in July, but one can never see enough La Traviatias, right? This production was good; the orchestra was great and the singing was okay although a bit dull in the first two acts. I think we have become accustomed to seeing great acting in operas on the Met stage because when it’s being broadcast to theaters around the world, the singers play to the cameras. It was still a great experience seeing an Italian opera in Italy (directed by an American, Sofia Coppola) with both English and Italian supertitles.

To Italy and Beyond

Tag: Opera