Farewell, Ireland

On October 12, 2026October 12, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Yesterday was a long day of travel, but we made it home with very few problems. Once again, being old and wobbly paid off. We were able to skip the lines at security, and we even had someone assisting us, although we didn’t really need it. Dublin Airport has a U.S. Customs check and again, we were ushered to an agent where there was no line. Going through customs in Dublin meant we didn’t have to do it in Boston, and that saved us a lot of time. The flight was long but uneventful, and we didn’t have to wait too long at Logan Airport for the bus to Portland where we picked up our car and drove home.

It’s good to be home, but I was a little sad to leave Ireland. We met so many nice people and learned a lot about Ireland’s history and culture. I wasn’t sure I would like a group tour because we are used to traveling on our own, making our own decisions (and mistakes) and doing our own thing. But, as we get older, I think it is smart for us to travel with groups. I would certainly try another Trafalgar tour because this one went so smoothly. And we enjoyed meeting people from different parts of the U.S.

On the long flight home, I had some time to reflect on our Irish experience. I’ve thought a lot about how culture, religion, language and government are related. On our tour we learned about the relationship between the Choctaw Nation and the people of Ireland that began during the potato famine when the Choctaw people raised $170 and sent it to Ireland to help feed people. The Choctaws had just suffered through the Trail of Tears and recognized the similarities between their hardships and those of the Irish. Both groups have fought to retain their culture, language, and governance. The relationship continued and in 2020, the Irish people made a sizable donation to Native American tribes who were hit hard by the coronavirus pandemic. Our trip to Ireland gave me some insight into how important it is for people to retain their heritage and preserve their history and culture in an ever changing world, and our governments must encourage and support that.

Thanks to all who have followed us on our journey. I still have photos to post (check the “Ireland” tab in the Photos menu) and will do that in the next few days. Until the next time… See you on the interwebs!

Our Final Day in Ireland

On October 11, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Today was our last day with our tour group as our bus took us from Sligo back to Dublin. The day was cloudy, then rainy, then sunny, then cloudy again and the cycle repeated. The trick to dealing with Irish weather is to always have your raincoat and your hat, and dress in layers.

Our first stop today was Carrick-on-Shannon where some members of our group took an optional boat ride on the River Shannon. We opted not to because we have been on many boat rides over the years and we wanted to use the time to see the town. Carrick-on-Shannon is a lovely little town in County Leitrim and in 2025 it was named Ireland’s tidiest town. I don’t know who awarded them that title, but we saw the plaque in a window and we can attest to the town’s cleanliness. It was a fun town for walking on a Saturday morning because it was very quiet and peaceful and… tidy! We saw some interesting shops, a tennis club, and a little park. We walked along the River Shannon a bit until the wind threatened to blow our hats off. We then went for coffee in a cute little cafe before getting back on the bus.

The drive back to Dublin was long, but once again the bus ride was an opportunity for me to do the New York Times crossword puzzle. We made a pit stop in a rest area where we were able to stretch our legs and get some air. If you are wondering about the price of gas in Ireland, check out the photo below. Be ready to make the necessary conversions from Euros and liters to gallons and dollars.

Back in Dublin, we were given some free time in the city before dinner. Paul and I had two days in Dublin before the bus tour so we had already seen a lot of the sights, but we missed the General Post Office where there is a museum. The exhibits depict major events in Irish history, including the 1916 Easter Rising. The museum was crowded, and we didn’t have nearly enough time there, but what we saw was compelling and thought-provoking. If we ever visit Dublin again I would like to return to the GPO.

Heading back to our bus, we walked over the Ha’penny Bridge to get a good look at the River Liffey.

Our “Best of Ireland” tour ended tonight with a farewell dinner at Roly’s Bistro Restaurant where we had a lively conversation with some new friends from Philadelphia.

Tomorrow we fly to Boston, catch the bus to Portland, and drive home. I’ll post again tomorrow with some final thoughts about our Irish adventure.

The Irish Coast is Beautiful, Even in the Rain!

On October 10, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

The weather was a bit better today, with alternating sunshine and showers and more rainbows! The rainbows in Ireland have been spectacular and it’s no wonder that Irish people make up stories about leprechauns and fairies in a landscape that seems magical.

On our trip today we drove around Killary Fjord in northern Connemara as we headed toward County Mayo. It was a beautiful ride along the fjord with the hills and mountains on either side. My photos taken through a bus window do not do it justice.

Our first stop was Glen Keen Farm where we attended a sheep herding demonstration. Michael the shepherd and his dog Jan showed us how they work together to move sheep wherever they need them to go. Jan is a lovely border collie who was very friendly with us tourists, but all business when it was time to work. Jan is trained to follow voice and whistle commands and Michael demonstrated both. I love border collies and would have one, but I’m too old to keep up with one, and I’ve been advised not to get a dog that’s smarter than I am. After the herding demonstration we were treated to scones and other homemade goodies and entertained by local musicians.

Back on the bus we headed toward County Mayo. Our bus rides were long today, but our guide James entertained us with history, stories and music. The history was a lot to take in and I don’t remember the details of all the stories, but the best one was about the Sam Maquire Cup and how County Mayo’s Gaelic football team won the championship in 1951. The team celebrated loudly, interrupting a funeral procession and the priest cursed them, declaring that they would never win another championship as long as any of them were living. That proved true for more than 70 years The last team member died recently and, of course, the curse was reversed and Mayo was victorious once more.

Our next stop was the Knock Shrine, a Roman Catholic pilgrimage site where villagers claimed to see an apparition of the Virgin Mary, Saint John, Saint Joseph, some angels, and Jesus. This has been investigated and declared a miracle.

Our journey continued along a very scenic route to Sligo where we stopped at the Thomas Connolly pub for a drink. This is an award-winning pub established in 1861 and we enjoyed a Changing Times Clockwork Stout from a Dublin brewery.

We checked into our hotel in Sligo and then took a scenic drive along the coast (big waves!) and on to a dinner at Harrison’s Bar and Restaurant.

Tomorrow we’re headed to Carrick on Shannon.

Rainy, Rainy Connemara

On October 9, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

I guess it was to be expected that we would have at least one really rainy day and that was today. It rained steadily, all day long with some pretty gusty winds too.

We traveled today through the Connemara countryside to Kylemore Abbey, home to a community of Benedictine nuns. We had a substitute bus driver today because our regular driver had to take a day off as required by law. We rotate assigned seats on the bus and today Paul and I were seated right in the front. It gave us a close up view of the narrow, twisty roads and confirmed our decision to never drive in Ireland. We have a lot of respect for our usual driver, Dave, and today’s substitute, Clifford. Both managed to skillfully steer the big coach through roundabouts and around oncoming cars on the narrow roads. I do not know how they do it.

When we arrived at Kylemore Abbey, it was pouring rain, so we headed right for the restrooms and shops and had a cup of tea to get out of the rain for a few minutes. Then we took a shuttle to the Victorian Walled Garden where we walked the paths, checked out a greenhouse, and said hello to the Connemara Ponies.

The Garden was impressive but we had only seen a fraction of it before we were soaked and cold, so we headed back to the queue for the shuttles.

We then visited the Kylemore Castle that was built in 1868 as a family home for Mitchell Henry, a wealthy London doctor, Exhibits in the castle told the story of Henry and his family and the tour took us through reconstructed rooms from their home. The Benedictine Abbey was established in 1920 for Benedictine nuns who escaped from Ypres after World War I. We intended to see more of the grounds and visit the Gothic Church, but the rain showed no sign of letting up, so we opted instead to make our way to the restaurant for a bowl of soup.

The Restored Dining Room in Kylemore Castle

Back on the bus, we made our return trip to Galway. The original plan was to spend more time exploring the city this afternoon, but no one wanted to spend any more time outside today, so the bus returned us all to the hotel. We were happy to have a few hours to just relax in our room before we all had dinner together in the hotel restaurant.

Tomorrow we head to a farm where we will see sheep and a herding demonstration, and then on to Knock Shrine and Sligo.

Cliffs of Moher, Smoked Salmon, and Galway

On October 8, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

I have found that predicting weather in Ireland is almost impossible. It can be bright and sunny one minute and pouring rain the next. Sometimes it rains while the skies are still sunny, hence all the rainbows whose ends provide hiding places for the leprechauns’ pots of gold. Today we saw several rainbows on our drive to the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre and as we walked along the cliff paths. The Visitors Center has a cafe, some exhibits, a few shops, and most importantly restrooms.

This is how we know leprechauns can swim.

The cliffs are dramatic and offer some beautiful views of the Atlantic. We were afraid it would be too foggy to see anything, but we were fortunate that the skies cleared a bit when we arrived. The wind was gusty and it was a bit damp at times, but we still were able to get some nice photos. Walking along the paths can be difficult, especially for us old folk with mobility issues, so “Cliff Lifts” (electric buggies) are available for those who need them. Paul had his trekking poles, so we walked, albeit a little slower than everyone else.

After our cliff walk, we stopped in the Visitors Centre where we heard singing. It turned out to be an a cappella men’s choir from Colorado called the Sound of the Rockies. We had a few minutes to kill before boarding our bus, so we stopped in a little music shop and Paul bought an Irish whistle which he was discouraged from playing on the bus.

Our next stop was the Burren Smokehouse where we learned all about smoked salmon and tasted some samples. The presenter told us all about cold smoking (the Irish way) and hot smoking (the Swedish way) and offered us a taste of each.

Back on the bus, we were off to Galway where we had some free time to explore the city on our own. Strolling around Eyre Square, we found the John F. Kennedy monument and, on Shop Street, statues of Oscar Wilde and Eduard Vilde as well as the Galway Girl with whom Paul made a wish It started to rain again so we popped into a little gift shop and bought hats. (Maybe that was what Paul wished for.)

This evening dinner was on our own, so we walked from the hotel to the Huntsman Inn where we dined on fish and chips in their gastropub.

Tomorrow we visit Kylmore Abbey and Connamara.

A Church and Three Castles

On October 7, 2026October 7, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Today was a day for castles and churches. Today we traveled to Limerick with a stop in Adare along the way. It was along drive, but James, our guide, entertained us by sharing the history of Limerick, the “City of the Broken Treaty.” He recounted the story of the war between the Jacobites (followers of King James II) and Prince William of Orange. He also told us about Chuck Feeney, an Irish-American businessman and philanthropist who donated money to many Irish causes and helped fund the University of Limerick.

On our way to Limerick, we stopped at the Adare Heritage Center. We took a quick look at the shops there and then visited the Holy Trinity Abbey Church. It’s an impressive church with lovely stained glass windows. On our way out of town we passed by the Adare Manor Golf Club that will host the Ryder Cup next year.

Stained Glass Windows in Holy Trinity Abbey Church

Back on the road, we made our way to Limerick and along the way stopped to take photos of King John’s Castle and the Treaty Stone where the Treaty of Limerick was signed.

King John’s Castle from the banks of the Shannon River

We passed through Limerick because our next stop was the Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Bunratty Castle is an impressive edifice with over 600 years of Irish history. We would have walked through it, but again the stairs and small spaces were daunting, so we opted to just admire the outside and take pictures. The surrounding park had reproductions of rural houses and shops, some with thatched roofs, and we had fun exploring them. There were also many animals on the site, including two very friendly afghan hounds.

Back in Limerick, we checked into our hotel and had a few hours of free time to relax before dinner. Our evening meal was a Medieval Banquet at Knappogue Castle. Upon arriving we were greeted by costumed actors and ushered into a large hall with long tables. Throughout the four-course dinner, the actors danced and sang, accompanied by a fiddler and a harpist. I expected this to be one of those cheesy activities you might see in the states, but it wasn’t. The music was excellent and the wine was flowing all night. A good time was had by all.

Tomorrow we head to the Cliffs of Moher and on to Galway.

The Ring of Kerry, a Stroll Through Killarney and an Irish Ceilidh Evening

On October 6, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

At this point, I must say something about hotel breakfasts in Europe. They are far better than those in American hotels. “Full breakfast” doesn’t seem to mean the same thing in the U.S. Most mornings in Ireland I have had the usual eggs and sausage, but also grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, and a wide variety of fruit. And nowhere have I seen those awful waffle makers that cause crowd control issues at the buffet.

This morning our bus took us around the Ring of Kerry, a 112 mile route around the Iveragh Peninsula. We started in Killarney and traveled anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise to us) as most of the tour buses do because the road is narrow and two huge vehicles passing could be difficult. Our first stop was Macken of Ireland, a lovely shop with Irish jewelry, woolens, and other items of interest to tourists. As we entered, we were offered Irish coffee (coffee with whiskey, brown sugar, and cream. We eagerly accepted because it was 5 o’clock somewhere. It was delicious.

Our next stop on the Ring of Kerry was in Waterville where we went on a quest to find a statue of Charlie Chaplin who vacationed there for several years in an attempt to escape the paparazzi.

Unfortunately, the fog was thick and we were unable to get pictures of the great water views one sees on sunny days.

We stopped for lunch at the Scarriff Inn where we had fish chowder that was okay. From there we took a long drive along the Ring of Kerry while James, our guide, pointed out interesting sights we might see if it wasn’t foggy and told stories about the history of this part of Ireland. He also played Irish music and songs with some connection to the area. Finally we stopped at Ladies View to take some photos. The area got its name when Queen Victoria visited and her ladies-in-waiting saw the view and declared it beautiful.

We returned to Killarney and had some free time to explore the town. This is definitely a town that caters to tourists. We stopped in a few shops and then found Murphy’s and had some delicious chocolate whiskey ice cream. (Thanks to my friend Jill for recommending it.)

This evening we were treated to an Irish Ceilidh, a social gathering with traditional music and dancing at Kate Kearney’s Cottage. We dined with new friends from Mississippi and Chicago and had some great conversations. The band and dancers were excellent and everyone declared it “craic.”

Tomorrow we head for Limerick. I may be inspired to write one.

Blarney Castle & Gardens and Killarney National Park

On October 5, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Our second bus tour day began with a long ride from Kilkenny to Blarney Castle. This morning’s journey allowed me to see some lovely Irish countryside full of cows, sheep, and hedges and gave me time to finish the New York Times crossword puzzle. When we arrived in Blarney our guide politely suggested that not everyone needs to kiss the Blarney Stone. It’s at the top of the Blarney Castle tower and getting there involves climbing through narrow passages and up many stone steps of uneven height and depth. We took one look at the stairs and decided the gift of gab was something we didn’t really need in our old age. Instead, we stood on the ground and looked up at the tower where we could see the more adventurous tourists bending over backwards to become more eloquent.

We spent most of our time exploring the gardens. Comprising about 60 acres, Blarney Gardens offers numerous walkways and paths through woodlands and garden plots including a poison garden and a fern garden and along several little streams and a lake. Paul had his trekking poles so we managed to visit a large portion of the gardens before we felt the need for a rest and some coffee.

Back on the bus, we headed for Killarney where we opted to take an optional jaunting car (horse cart) ride through Killarney National Park. Dennis and Henry, our driver and horse, took us along streets and narrow paths in the park, artfully dodging joggers and walkers, as Dennis pointed out flora and fauna including red deer and white tailed deer. It was a pleasant way to see some of the park.

After checking in at our hotel and resting a bit, we enjoyed dinner with two new friends from Florida with whom we discussed music, sports, children, and just a bit of American politics.

Tomorrow we visit the Ring of Kerry. We’re hoping for good weather.

A Day of Irish History, Manufacturing, Sport, Music, and Beer

On October 4, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Our Trafalgar bus left Dublin bright and early this morning as we set off for our “Best of Ireland” tour. Our first stop was New Ross where we visited the Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience. The Dunbrody is a replica of an 1840s emigration ship that sailed to America with Irish folk who were escaping the potato famine. Our host was energetic and funny but respectful of the sad history of this ship and its passengers. The conditions on the ship were horrible, but remarkably a large percentage of the emigrants managed to survive the journey and start a new life in our country. The exhibits also celebrated the contributions the Irish have made to American culture and politics.

From New Ross we traveled on to Waterford where we visited Waterford Crystal. We learned about the history of crystal production in Waterford and then took a tour of the factory where we watched the highly-skilled glass workers creating their art with our guide describing each step of the process. Waterford creates extraordinary pieces from the little bird we held in our hands, to the beautiful cut glass vases and stemware, to huge chandeliers, and even the ball that drops in Times Square on New Year’s Eve. When Paul and I were married we received a Waterford cut-glass decanter as a wedding gift from our best man. That decanter came to a tragic end, but that’s a story for another time.

After we left Waterford Crystal (without buying anything) we had a couple of hours to walk around the city of Waterford and explore a little.

From Waterford we traveled to Stonyford for the Malzards Pub and Hurling Experience. We began in the pub with pints of Kilkenny beer while our host introduced us to the sport of hurling.

I had never heard of hurling as a sport, but he explained to us that hurling in Ireland is not the same kind of hurling we Americans might do after too many beers. After learning some of the terminology and rules of the game we were invited to go out to the field and try some hurling ourselves. Paul and I stood on the sidelines with the other cheerleaders while the more adventurous (and younger) members of our group tried to pick up some hurling skills. Hilarity ensued.

Returning to our beers, we were treated to some Irish music which some of our fellow tour members contributed to. It was all great fun, and the beer was pretty good too.

We are now in our hotel in Kilkenny where we had a lovely dinner and enjoyed the company of two new friends from Mississippi. Tomorrow we head to Killarney.

The National Gallery and EPIC (Every Person is Connected)

On October 3, 2026 By Barbara GreenstoneIn IrelandLeave a comment

Day 3 in Dublin began with a visit to the National Gallery of Ireland. We didn’t have much time so we decided to concentrate on the third floor where we saw a lot of European Art including a room titled “Caravaggio and His Circle“ in which I saw one actual Caravaggio and a lot of paintings in the style of Caravaggio. We wandered through several other rooms of paintings from the Renaissance through the 18th century with a few 19th century impressionists thrown in. After an hour or so we felt the need for another dose of caffeine, so we headed for the coffee shop.

John Singer Sargent’s “Bead Stringers of Venice”

The coffee shop was crowded, so when a women asked to join us at our table we readily agreed. Her name is Eileen and she ‘s a retired educator from Dublin where she taught languages. We chatted for quite some time, and Eileen and her friend who joined us later gave us lots of advice about things to see and do in some of the areas we will be visiting on our tour. We also talked about politics and Eileen shared her dismay about what is happening in the US these days. It saddens me to hear how Europeans see us now.

After the gallery, we caught a bus back to the hotel. I really like the Dublin city buses. They’re clean and easy to find (with the help of Google Maps) and they run often. The people riding the buses have been extremely polite and accommodating. More than once a rider has given up their seat to us so we don’t have to stand, and everyone says thank you to the driver when they get off, even if they have to shout it from the doors in the middle of the bus.

Our Trafalgar tour began this afternoon with a sight-seeing drive around the city and a stop at Phoenix Park where we visited the People’s Gardens and Ashtown Castle. From there, we rode to Epic The Irish Emigration Museum We started at Bakehouse where we were treated to drinks and finger food, and then made our way through the various exhibits that told the story of Irish emigration and how Irish people contributed to the culture of the countries they emigrated to.

Sculpture Depicting How the Irish Emigrated By Sea and Air

Tomorrow we board the bus and head to Waterford and Kilkenny.