The Colosseum, the Forum, and Opera Roma

The Colosseum

We purchased our Roma cards today which make getting around Rome and getting into museums much easier. We hopped on the Metro and went to the Colosseum with a few thousand other tourists. With Rick Steves as our guide (Paul has the app on his phone) we walked around and marveled at the amazing engineering feat the Romans (with slave labor) managed to create for viewing all kinds of barbaric entertainment (think football).  I kept thinking about the short story The Lady or the Tiger that I used to read with eighth-graders because they loved both the romantic and barbaric aspects although the ambiguity drove them crazy. The story doesn’t take place in Rome but in some semi-barbaric kingdom with an arena. Maybe my favorite part of the tour was when Mr. Steves explained that Roma and Amor together form a palindrome.

We then went to the Forum and I was disappointed that nothing funny happened on the way. I wish we had more time there because there’s much to see, but we managed to get through about half of the Rick Steves tour before we decided we’d had enough. You can see some of our pictures on the Rome page.

Opera Roma

In the evening we went to Opera Roma to see La Traviata. The hall is beautiful and we were seated in a box with three lovely Italian ladies who delighted in practicing their English with us during the intermissions. This is our third time seeing La Traviata this year. We saw the Met Live in HD production at the movie theater and the Opera Maine production in July, but one can never see enough La Traviatias, right? This production was good; the orchestra was great and the singing was okay although a bit dull in the first two acts. I think we have become accustomed to seeing great acting in operas on the Met stage because when it’s being broadcast to theaters around the world, the singers play to the cameras. It was still a great experience seeing an Italian opera in Italy (directed by an American, Sofia Coppola) with both English and Italian supertitles.

When in Rome…

Paul is pleased that we found the Borghese Gallery and it stopped raining.
Paul is pleased that we found the Borghese Gallery and it stopped raining.

Paul and I used to harbor a fantasy that we could be contestants on The Amazing Race, that TV reality show that pits two-person teams against each other in a race around the world. It only took one day in Rome to convince us that we would not fare well because a) we’re too old, b) we’re too slow, and c) we’re directionally challenged. We managed to find the right train from the airport, and we found our hotel after a circuitous but scenic trek in the rain, but our big challenge was to find the Borghese Gallery.

The Borghese Gallery is home to the spectacular Bernini sculptures and we had a reservation for a tour at 2:45. Finding it turned out to be a challenge. We decided not to use our cellular data on our phones to avoid huge charges, so we didn’t have Google to guide us, and our analog GPS (map) was not very good. We soon learned that most people in Rome really like tourists and are willing to help. Yes, we know to look out for pick pockets and we were very careful, but each time we stopped and asked for directions, everyone was polite and helpful.

The Borghese Gallery is amazing, but the Bernini exhibit is so popular that you have to make a reservation in advance and are only allowed two hours to view it. We were exhausted from an overnight flight, a lot of walking, and the time change, so we really weren’t able to give it its due.
Bernini-Rape of Proserpina
Interestingly, this museum posts a lot of rules that they do not enforce. When you enter you are told to check and bags, cameras, and recording equipment because no photography of any kind is allowed. I dutifully did that, but as we entered the exhibit, we saw people with huge cameras or phones (often on a selfie stick) and they were taking pictures everywhere. There were few security guards and they tended to look the other way. I even saw a mother place her three children inside a security rope so they could pose with a statue for a picture! This emboldened Paul to take out his phone and snap a few pics. No photography, however, can do it justice. One of the most famous works is the statue of the Rape of Proserpina (see Paul’s excellent photo above.)

 

We were especially fond of a bust of Cardinal Richelieu. No one laughed when I said he looked marblous, not even Paul whose major responsibility is to laugh at all my jokes.

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Best Laid Plans

Pine Limb
Limb from one of our pine trees in the back yard. We were lucky it didn’t hit the house or the cars.

No matter how well I think I’ve planned, something always seems to happen to throw me off. This time it was a major storm that blew down a lot of trees and knocked out our power early Monday morning. We left this morning (Thursday) at around 10:00 and the power still had not been restored. For the last four days, just carrying out our normal routine was a challenge, let alone organizing and packing for a three-week trip. We managed somehow, and now we’re sitting in Terminal E at Logan, waiting for our flight. When we left the power had not been restored, but we cleaned out the refrigerator, unplugged everything, and walked away. Our kind neighbors will keep an eye out and let us know if the house explodes when the power comes back. On the upside, we went to the Merrill Auditorium in Portland last night, where it was light and warm, and heard Yo Yo Ma give an extrordinary concert. We considered that the beginning of our amazing musical vacation.

So, we’re on our way. Here’s our itinerary (roughly):

11/3-11/ – 11/6 Rome

11/7 – 11/10 Florence

11/11 – 11/12 – Milan

11/13 – Zurich

11/14 – 11/15 – Salzburg

11/16 – Vienna

11/17 – 11/24 – Viking River Cruise on Danube from Budapest to Nuremberg

Question of the day: Does the TSA give security exemptions to old people just because it takes us so long to put our shoes back on?